the torsion bars are the bars splined into the back of the lower control arm that run to the crossmember under the truck and act as a spring to hold the truck up. you will be getting rid of these when you bag it.

eatinpavement- you answered my question perfectly..It was the Radius arms that I was talking about...this gives me a great detailed idea of what i can do with them. thank you again for your expertise..I am using my stock spindles..to eliminate the wheel push out of running a drop spindle, I love the stock lines of the Pup..without the wider fenders up front...so I am doing whatever I can to stay away from using an Amigo/rodeo fender. So I am notching my lower stock arms as well.

I also know i am removing the torsion bars..that was my first step up front..next was digging into the brakes/spindles ball joints and rest of what makes up the suspension up front.

do i need to use the flat steel plates I got with my torsion truck bracket set up from SSD.???..they look to be about roughly 3" wide..maybe 1/4" thick by 6" long with a curve towards the end...They are meant to be welded to the top of the lower arm with the circle bag plate ontop of them..I see that very few guys use them to bag theier front ends...but have seen a few pics of them being used..such as on "project isabella" keefs truck.

This project is teaching me many things, as well as all the help I am getting along the way from you guys! Thanks so much!!

either way will prolly be fine. i put my lower balljoints on the top of the control arm so i used a plate on mine to lift the bag a little off of the balljoint.

i thought i would explain how i did this on 20s, but i didnt eliminate the caster bars although id like to later. i notched a 2x3x5 triangle in my lowers. the outcome was about another 5 inches of suspension travel. After doing this i cut the top of the shock tower off to clear the uppers then ran into another prob, my uppers were now in A bind. so to fix that i pie cut the uppers at the end rite behind the b.j. itself. i had to make to cuts to do this so ill post some pics later. I got the bags mounted in wich had very close toleranse when liad completely out. After all this work the truck still didnt lay all the way. In the end i had to make a 1/4 inch shim plate for the uppers and Z the frame 1 and 3/4 inch but it finally laid completely,looked amazing, had 0 pos or neg camber at full lift. When laid completely i come out with a total of about 5 inches of neg camber and didnt have to use a drop spindle. If u do this rought i forgot to mention u will have to reverse ur upper control arm bolts and notch ur driver side upper to clear the steering shaft. Ill post pics later on this and hope this helps someone. ....oh yea dont make the mistake i did and order a new set of wheels in an 8.5 wide u will have to regraft ur bedsides and use amigo fenders.

can you post a pic of the notch? when you flip the ball joints how much more does it tuck. i know on toyota it is 3/4 of an inch. i just did one earlier and tou could really tell the difference. but on my zu i want to notch the control arms and wanted to check on how far up the control arm i needed to notch it