thanks, the whole project some people hate it, some people love it. i wanted to do this kit ever since it came out for the B series. then one day i saw someone TRIED to put it on a Pup and it was OK, ALOT and i mean ALOT of bondo to "smooth" it in. so by the time i was done, i had about 700.00 out of pocket to get the truck AND the kit to me. the truck was ROUGH but i sold alot off it and stripped the kit off it. i tried to save the old cab and frame but it was not happening. i got that 94 in my hands, rebuilt it and figured i wanted another convertable, so i said why not put the kit on it too......well heres what i did today. i just screwed the kit to the truck and trying to fit it and reglass anything i can, reenforce the weak spots and fix the holes..... im going to use 3M panel epoxy (industrial strength stuff used by GM and Ford to put on bed sides)to adhear the parts to the truck. can use the stuff to smooth the panels in too....well heres an update:




the fins are not straight, i have to epoxy them on, the rivets holding it broke or were put on crooked, ill fix it as best as i can



i have to move the rear axle back 3" roughly. going to relocate the front spring perch back on the frame and give me more of a drop



heres the link to my photobucket site with all the pics:
http://s83.photobucket.com/albums/j307/ ... /94%20pup/

thanks for the compliments and criticism (not everyone likes the kit)

going old school here so.....

on the Mazda kit the door fins come as one panel and you jsut glue it on. since the Pup has a rounder shell and a way different lower section i have to cut and graft on each piece and contour it to the body lines. what a HUMP!!! im using Fuzor 100EZ 2 part epoxy, it allows flexing and also doesnt leave a residue on the epoxy allowing the body filler to adhear to it. other epoxies leave a film of oil and cause the body filler, no matter how thin, to lift over time and crack. hopefully this kit will not crack, i can use alittle flex agent in the paint but makes polishing and color sanding impossible. Plans are to go with Fly Yellow, OEM Ferrari color for the Testarossas. i got my rims yesterday, well the temporary ones, 15x10 in the back and 15x7 up front...yup OLD SCHOOL..

well it was nice here for a change and got to play again.....
moved the rear axle back, temporarly so i could get the driveshaft made. i just popped the blocks off the centering pin and backed up the axle 3.75" over all. took off all the brake cable straps and lengthened the adjustment bar up front (see pics). I had to bend the adjustment bolt abit to clear the frame, since it went back about 3" more it follows the frame better. so the ebrake works again, the axle is dead on straight (i measured about 20 times, after each time i tightened the u bolts). just have to get the driveshaft lengthened and refill the trans with oil. figured if i put the truck back down on the ground with no driveshaft, its coming out anyway so that will be done as well..... well enjoy the pics...








I also collared the joint on the adjuster just to be safe.....

well just updating the post with a new pic....getting the one door finished soon. ive been epoxying some hood scoop type bolts into each fin to holr and locate them until i get them just right. realigning the bed fins as well. the cab fins are non-adjustable so i have to match them to that. not really that hard to do, uni-bits come in VERY handy for this and the bed fins were only rivited. its amazing how crappy this kit is, not all the fins are the same, alot of carving and reglassing to make it right. the epoxy is great. if anyone ever wants to mold in a kit (any type of kit) this stuff is awesome. sands easy with 60 grit then upward from there and body filler smoothes it out even more...gotta say its coming out nicier then i thought AND STRONGER. well heres what i did on fathers day....364 more days and i can do the other side the 2 bottom door fins are not adjusted yet and one bed fin is still loose......still got to adjust them before gluing....

comin along nice man i doubt ANYONE ever put that kit on a pup before...

I'll have to agree with that...original idea makes me tired looking at all the work u puttin into that truck!!lol!!

little more work done tonight...took out the bench seat and started getting the e brake set up for the WIDE TRACK rodeo dana 44 set up between them. I also got an LSD with the wider rear axle, which is only 3" wider but i needed it. the dash ebrake is no longer connected and the Dana 44 ebrake set up is in the works. just have to weld in the pieces.... i took the floor section of a 95.5 Rodeo i had (yeah another parts truck....make something like 50 or so Isuzus ive had) and separated the spot welds. only messed up ONE finger this time . so i got the top section and the lower cable section apart. it basically fell right into place. i love isuzus for this....





i basically cut around the seat mounts since i didnt want to mess witht he structure and strength there. the floor panels are the same except for the ebrake mount and for the center console, yup Rodeo center console going in....ARM REST BABY!!!!!

i also did new rotors and calipers in the rear after making NEW mounts for the axle relocation. i took a piece of a leaf and drilled a hole for the centering pin, and another hole for a bolt to locate the lowering block into. i also grabbed another 1/4" drop



the truck is going either Fly Yellow (and ill change the caliper color to that also) or grey and ill keep the blue caliper color....not sure what yet, im FAR FAR FAR from paint
more to come
Ron

dude can't wait to see this thing done you should shave the tailights and put in some led's

Ebrake mount and cables are IN:




herculiner'd the cab too. figured it was all out to weld....might as well do some preventable maintenance (convertables DO leak)




i have to reclamp the passengerside cable cause the gas tank is in the way abit and it shortened the path for the cable abit so i had to take off all the retainer clips used on the brake cables. Alittle reworking and it should be fine. the ebrake grabs fine, might have to adjust it alittle more. The mounts, i dropped in from the top instead of the one from the bottom like factory. The Shortbed has a one piece driveshaft that moves UPWARD towards the cab RIGHT into the ebrake pocket. Rodeos have a 2 piece so the main one out of the trans is stationary to the carrier bearing.... So i got about another 3/4" of clearance this way. amazing how you have to figure stuff like this out cause it would have been a mess if i put it in the other way. measure twice cut once, right????
more to come:
Low

Wow!!! I love the old school flavor. Good work keep it up.